Denis Urubko: I will not name Poles as winter winners of Broad Peak
Interview with Denis Urubko by polish Journalist, Jakub Radomski
Why is Broad Peak the main goal of your upcoming winter trip
Denis Urubko: For several reasons. First of all, it is an eight-thousanders. Secondly, I have many positive associations with this summit. I was on the summit in 2003 and 2005, the second time I opened a new route there. I know the route to the summit very well, I also know how to acclimatize there. This is a good goal for a small team that wants to enjoy climbing in winter, and not just fight low temperatures, ascent difficulties, wind and other problems. In addition, no one has ever climbed Broad Peak in winter.
No one? On March 5, 2013, Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski stood on the summit. The last two did not go down to the base and stayed there forever. It is the feat of these four officially considered the first winter ascent of Broad Peak.
Calendar winter is different and meteorological is different. I'll give you an example. During the trip to Broad Peak I will be accompanied by Canadian Don Bowie. When we planned the trip, he said, "Denis, we should attack the summit in March." "Why?" - I ask. And Bowie says, "Because it's much warmer then." And of course he is right. March in the highest mountains is already spring. That is why I consider the first winter entries to take place between December 1 and the end of February. In mid-January 2005, Piotr Morawski and Simone Moro entered Sziszapangma, while on December 11, 2004 the Frenchman Jean-Christophe Lafaille climbed the summit. And I think he is the first winter conqueror of Shishapangma. The same now, if one of us during the period I marked on you stands on Broad Peak, in my opinion will be the author of the first truly winter entry. Someone who will go down in history
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